Problem: Calorifer cools down too fast
Our calorifer is in the engine compartment so gets colder at night and if engine not run. OK for 2 showers if taken soon after engine switched off, but too cold to shower in morning.
Possible causes:
1. not heating to maximum temperature, as engine never seems to get much over 71C (when calorifer thermostat opens): Fix - check 88C thermostat which may be stuck open or opening too early; replace if required; may need to fit tempering valve. Requires thermostat and seal/sealant.
2. reverse convection current through engine manifold cooling tank (and skin tank if 88C thermostat open): Fixes - fit non-return valve to prevent reverse flow (Done, but had little effect; may also need thermostat replaced as in 1.)
3. poor insulation: Fix - insulate pipes in engine room, possibly add extra insulation to tank. Requires pipe insulators, tank wrap or can of insulation foam.
See https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/65697-heating-water-quicker/
Problem: Too much cold water (1L?) needs running off before hot water through
Cause: Long unlagged pipe runs. Possible fixes - lag pipes (Too difficult as mostly inaccessible); circulate hot water with pump (Too difficult as requires return run of pipe installed, plus will cool tank faster). Workaround - save cold water in kettle to avoid water waste. (However, this water is not charcoal filtered.)
Enhancement: Running central heating off engine
Currently the central heating only runs off the Eberspacher; the engine only heats up the hot water for taps.
Adding a bypass water pipe around the Eberspacher with a small electric pump and a non-return valve would push central heating water through Calorifer where it will pick up heat once the Calorifer water is hot and take it through the radiators. Requires extra pipe (size?), 2 x T joint, 2 x non-return valves, pump, pipe clips, wiring, fused switch on main board.
